After the Mekong home stay, we decided on going with a little (comparable) luxury in our next place. The lizards / bugs / mice ratio had affected our sleep a bit!
Hopping back on the bikes for the second time, we got to Can Tho bus station, and following the advice of Mr. Hung we bought tickets to Rach Gia on the ’nice bus’, which was a fine 3 hour journey, with the plan to buy tickets from there to Ha Tien. I think we were probably a bit screwed over, but we did managed to get seats on the local bus, which was a bit of an experience. I don’t think capacity was a factor in the driver’s thinking, who just bounced along with his hand on the horn, picking up in random places and filling up completely. At one point, a woman got on with a mattress, and at another they strapped a motorbike to the back. Anyway, we made it to Ha Tien, and with no maps had to go on some more motos to our hotel (we’re getting good at holding on now).
Ha Tien is a sleepy little place, with which is usually skipped over by tourists. It was nice to walk around for a couple of days, and we achieved the main aim of having good showers and getting washing done. There is one English bar, the Oasis, where we did enjoy a cooked breakfast and PG tips! The town was a nice final stop in Vietnam, and with the nearest town in Cambodia (Kep) being so close, everything seemed like it would be nice and easy…
Instead of booking some moto drivers to the border, we decided the official looking bus service through our hotel would be a better bet. Paying the extra dollar, we arranged a 7am pick up the next day. The front desk guy later suggested coming down for 6ish, as apparently we’d need to get motos to the tourist office. Not ideal, but okay.
At 5.50am the next morning, our room phone went to tell us the bikes were here. Hopping on the back, we assumed it would be short trip. 6km later, we were at the border, and clearly there would be no bus. Only one guy spoke English, and as we were stamped out of Vietnam into no mans land, we both knew we weren’t getting quite what we paid the hotel for! Despite reading a lot of posts online saying the border crossing should be $20, our ’guide’ insisted on it being $25, and despite our polite protests, it was getting us nowhere. So, we paid the extra for the visas, and then came the fabled medical check.
Basically a shack next to the visa building (a slightly bigger shack), a surgical mask wearing border guard asked us to fill out some forms to show that we weren’t full of disease. He then took Law’s temperature, pointing a thermometer at her forehead, seeming to be happy, and then asked for a dollar. We knew this was just a con, so while I started to get a bit annoyed Law stayed calm and said “no, I don’t think that’s right is it.” Staying polite, asking for a receipt and then showing our vaccine booklets and marriage certificate(!), he was finally satisfied. The highlight was, after Law said no, he turned sheepishly to the side, with the final gamble being “you don’t pay, you don’t go in” – the fact we already had visas at this point seemed a bit too much for him.
With a parting shot of “you should get a cancer vaccination next time you come to Cambodia”, we were in. But not far. With our biker guide, we then stood around and waited, while he seemed to haggle with some locals, he handed over some money and then left us, saying “pay no more”. A guy opened his boot, we put our bags in, and we waited another half an hour for him to fill up his car. Finally, with 5 of us crammed in the back, we set off toward Kep…
And of course, didn’t get quite that far. Stopping around 6 or 7km outside the village, the driver gave some money to another couple of moto drivers and off we went. They stopped and flagged down a couple of English speakers at different points, until they finally got us to our ridiculously idyllic hotel.
It only took just over 2 hours door to door, and was pretty funny, but we still felt a little bit ripped off. For anyone looking at doing this crossing, we booked through Hai Phu’ong Hotel – so be warned! We’re in Cambodia though, in a private bungalow with a pool by the beach, and were there by 8.30am relaxing . Not a bad start to our time here.